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Completed artworks

After my HD died a couple weeks ago (R.I.P) I been computer-less for about a week and then when I got my new computer, juggling between everyday stuff, installing programs and getting myself reorganized occupied quite a bit of my time. End result: I’ve fallen behind in keeping my blog updated :(

The good news though is that I got finished artworks to show you, now that I’m back in business and assuming that the sky won’t fall on my head again anytime soon.

Eye of David, graphite and white charcoal on grey paper

The above picture is the final Cast Drawing exercise of the eye of David by Michelangelo. Check out Cast Drawing 4 to see what the same drawing looked like 3 weeks ago – Because we didn’t have the time to complete the exercise at Atelier de Brésoles, we were allowed a few more hours the following week to complete the exercise – Guess what? It’s still not completed – For real, one could spend months, years refining the drawing and filling all the little holes in the paper with graphite and white charcoal.  But the purpose of this exercise is to learn and understand the technique. At this level of completion, this cast drawing exercise makes for a nice demonstration in my Art portfolio. If I wanted to make it a showpiece for Art exhibits, then it’d be worth it to spend several months filling the little holes.

Check out previous Cast Drawing articles: Cast Drawing 1Cast Drawing 2Cast Drawing 3Cast Drawing 4

"L'oublié" (the forgotten one) Oil on 16X16 canvas

L'oublié (the forgotten one) - Oil on 16X16 canvas

Finally, I completed my clay pot painting this week – I decided to name it “L’oublié” which stands for “the forgotten one” because it looks like the clay pot has been left behind and loneliness is the feeling that emerges when I look at that painting. I find that the pot’s bright and warm orange and red enamel, which contrasts with the pot and the atmosphere’s cool colours suggests the beauty or qualities of the forgotten one.

I thought that I would have completed that painting earlier but it turns-out that I had to do some major corrections on it. The rim of the pot was very off-centred and the chip on it was too large, I don’t know how come I didn’t see that earlier.

That painting is going to be featured at a local collective exhibit I got planned for April along with two other paintings. There are no exhibition fees and each artist is allowed to showcase up to 3 paintings no older than 2 years, so I figured that I’d exhibit a 2008, 2009 and 2010 painting

The Making of the New SOTW Logo – Part 2

In Part 1 of The Making of the New SOTW Logo, I covered the steps of sketching Buddy, cleaning up the sketch and the Thick-and-Thin outline.

In this second part of the article, I’m going to go over the steps involved in the coloration and adding shadows and highlights.


After scanning the clean outline of Buddy in grey scale mode (will change to RGB colour mode later, before applying the colours) at 300 dpi (that’s Dot Per Inch, which is the same as the SOTW Logotype I made earlier) I’m also going to open in Photoshop the images that I’m going to use for the montage or for colour reference…

1: A screen shot of the SOTW page – 2: An existing cartoon for colour reference for Buddy – 3: Layout of the logotype (which I’m going to refine later in Part 3 of the Making of article)

Once scanned, in Photoshop, I put Buddy on a new layer that I will name “Line-Out” and threshold the layer to get a sharp, crisp line – Then using the Magic Wand tool, I’m going to select all of the white (the “Select Similar” feature in the Select menu also comes in handy in order to not omit any tiny parts of white) and hit delete so that I get just the outline on a separate layer.
This is what it looks like if I turn-off the background layer:
After verifying and correcting any little irregularities in the Line-Out, I’m going to lock that layer to make sure that I don’t accidentally move it or draw on it – Staying organized is essential when working with different layers in Photoshop – Then I’m going to create a new blank layer under the line-out layer, or if you prefer in between the white background and the Line-out layer. I’m going to name it “Flat Colours”. This is the layer that I’m going to be working on.
From an existing cartoon, I’m selecting the colour using the Eye Dropper tool – This is part of some more self-established rules that I’ve come-up with over the years – Besides being an alto, Buddy is only distinguishable from Sam (the other alto in my cartoons and Buddy’s alter ego) and other sax characters by his colours – Simply put, all saxophones share the same colours but Buddy’s body colour is a lighter yellow than his keys, pad cups and rods, while it’s the other way around for the other saxophone characters.
Zooming into the graphic with the Flat Colour Layer selected and using the Pencil tool, I start to colour around the outline’s interior. Clicking once to position the tip of the Pencil tool and then holding the Shift button to create a straight line.
I make sure that the colour contour goes just about halfway under the outline of the drawing and making sure not to leave any gap.
I navigate using the space bar to transform the Pencil tool into the Hand tool to move my way around the graphic. This requires a bit of practice to coordinate both hands (right hand on the mouse and left hand alternating between the Shift button and Space Bar) but once used to work like this, one becomes very quick at it.
Once the shape is closed, I’m going to fill it up using the Paint Bucket Tool. I’m going to apply the flat colours to the entire saxophone this way.
Like many Classic cartoon characters, Buddy is wearing white gloves. So in order to see what I’m doing and in making sure that I close the shape to be filled up, I’m turning off the white background under the Flat Colours Layer.
I make sure that the glove’s white extends a little bit into the arms, to prepare for the next step.
While some cartoon characters have a hard, black line-out separating each colours, some other cartoon characters have no line-out where some colours meet – This is the case for Buddy’s arms and legs.
So I’m going to create a new layer right above the Flat Colours layer and name it “Arms” – Then after applying the colour to the arms, I select in sort of a rounded shape, part of the arm’s colour using the Polygonal Lasso Tool. Then choose Feather from the Select menu, enter a value of 6 and hit delete.
Normally, I don’t go further than flat colours for my cartoons but since this is for the SOTW logo, I’m going to add some shading and highlights to give Buddy and the logo a little extra wow effect – To prepare for this and to help me gauge values better in context of the SOTW logo and page, I’m filling the background layer the same colour as the SOTW header – In this case, Harri has given me a specific hexadecimal colour code to enter.
I’ve gone ahead of myself here and added highlights to the sunglasses. I’m not going to show through every steps of the shading and highlight process, that’s going to take too long. Instead, I’m simply going to explain the principle and show the main steps.
The use of flat or uniform colours makes them easy to select using the Magic Wand tool. If say I want to add shading or highlights to the saxophone’s body, on the Flat Colour layer, I just click anywhere on the sax’s body to select that colour, then choose “Similar” from the Select menu – Everything of that colour, including little tiny parts are going to be selected.
Once the colour is selected, I create a new layer called “Shades” on top of the Flat Colours layer – With the Brush Tool I’m going to add touches of a darker orange colour into the selected shape. Then I’m going to apply effects to the Shades layer, usually darken or multiply; whichever is better. I experiment a little with the effects and fiddle around with the opacity level until I’m satisfied.
[SIZE=3]Using the same method, I’ve added several layers of shades and highlights, experimenting with different effects until I’m happy with the results.
In the next and final Making of the SOTW Logo article, I’m going to paste Buddy next to the logotype I started earlier, modify the fonts, colours and add more special effects.

Cast Drawing 4

Previous blog entries:  Cast Drawing 1Cast Drawing 2Cast Drawing 3

At this week’s last Cast Drawing Atelier we reproduce a part of Michelangelo’s David (in my case, the eye) with graphite on grey paper. The other students and I didn’t have the time to complete our drawing – I’m also a little bit slower than the others, I noticed – Next week we are going to go back to the atelier to complete our work.

Eye of David, graphite on grey paper

At home I was able to fill the cast shadow in 2B pencil and then go over in HB pencil, given that the model isn’t really needed for that. It’s just filling the shape uniformly – Next week, I’m going to refine the shadows around the eye and then work on the light masses in China White pencil – I’ll post the finished artwork next week.

Check out Atelier de Brésoles web site and their blog for more info and description of techniques shown at the Atelier.


Making of the New SOTW Logo – Part 1

With Sax On The Web’s 10 year anniversary behind us and now with its recent upgrade and new look, I decided that it’s time for a new logo. I have been pondering on this for quite some time and by now have a clear idea of what I want for the new SOTW logo.

I want the saxophone bigger among other things – his name is “Buddy” by the way – While his name has remained unknown for many  years, Buddy, the main character and my other saxophone characters are certainly not unfamiliar to the SOTW community.

So for this new rendition of the SOTW logo, I thought I’d do something special and give you the making of the logo from the rough sketch on paper to the pixels on your screen.


Enjoy!


~ Kim

So it all starts here, where I set-up the font, font size and come-up with an interesting and visually pleasing placement of the “Sax On The Web” and the “by Harri Rautiainen” typography in Photoshop – At this point, the colours are not important, I’ll change that later. I just want a quick layout of the text that I will print on paper in grey scale.

Here is the printout on the light table. Placing a blank sheet of paper on top, I will quickly outline the right edge of the right-most letters to indicate where the logotype ends. Then I draw a sketch of Buddy…
Okay, a very simplified sketch of Buddy :D
Once I’m satisfied with the placement – this is of course approximate – I proceed to draw the general shape of the body and the distinctive saxophone bell.
When I’m happy with that, I’m adding the details, keys, rods, pearls, eye, mouth and… sunglasses! That’s because saxophonists are cool and they hang out at this cool place called SOTW but Buddy is a saxophone, so of course he’s got to be the coolest.
Turning the light table on again, I position the arms in an attractive way with the blue pencil (That’s what animation cartoonists use. It’s easy to erase and a whole lot less messier than graphite pencil) Then I draw the hands. Buddy’s right hand (down) will be partly hidden by a talk-bubble but I still draw it anyway.
Once I’m pleased, I will draw over the arms and hands, and clarify details that are difficult to see in red pencil.
Now, on a new blank sheet of paper the final sketch is ready to be cleaned with black, permanent ink – this delicate operation requires assurance and is not recommended after drinking 3 espressos – If I mess-up I could always liquid-paper-it-out, but it isn’t very practical since I wouldn’t see through it on the light table.
The other option is to start over but no worries, that’s not going to happen. :D
I begin to clean up the arms first, exaggerating a little bit on the thickness of the line. This will be useful when I get to the thick-and-thin part. I’ll get to that part later but the general rule goes that arms, hands, legs and under the feet have to be thicker. That contributes to set-in the character in space and makes for a more dynamic character.
Once the arms are done, I clean up the rest of the saxophone, outlining the front-most shapes to the shapes behind and so on. For now I’m doing a simple clean line to get the line out down, making sure to close every lines that joins to another.
In this case, there are little imperfections in the line out, but nothing that can’t be fixed into the next step; the thick-and-thin – Simply put, that consists of going over the lines to make them thicker in some places and thinner in others – There are a certain set of pre-established cartooning rules to follow, like what I said about the arms and legs earlier, and a set of self-established rules that I’ve developed over time, setting a style for my saxophone cartoons characters.
Finally, Buddy is ready to be scanned and digitally coloured – We’ll see that in part 2 of The Making of the New SOTW Logo.

Cast Drawing 3

The young boy below was drawn using the same approach as we did last week with the woman bust in graphite pencil exercise, only this time on Canson Steel Grey paper and using General’s White Charcoal Pencil at first, to render the light masses – I started with the ear, then measured and re-adjust as the drawing develops – To achieve different sub tones, we can remove the excess chalk with a Kneaded Rubber Eraser – We can then refine the white masses where the light is more prominent and add details using a Derwent Chinese White Pencil. The later is waxier than the General’s White, which allows to push the previous layer of white chalk into the paper’s grain, for more intensity and precision.

Boy profile, white charcoal on grey paper

Check out Atelier de Brésoles web site and their blog for more info and description of techniques shown at the Atelier.

Next exercise was an egg. Here we combined white charcoal and different graphite pencils on this same Canson Grey paper.  First we sketch the contour of the egg, the cast shadow and form shadow in HB pencil. Then with a 2B pencil we proceed filling the cast shadow – At this point, we’re only concerned with filling the shadow mass in an even tone – Then fill the form shadow (that’s the one on the egg) in HB pencil – Again, we’re only concerned in producing an even tone – and continue in the cast shadow to blend the tones and refine it more. Same as with the white charcoal in the above exercise, the use of harder graphite does push into the paper’s grain the previous graphite layer, which makes for better blending/smoothening and developing sub tones.

Egg, white charcoal and graphite on grey paper

With a 2H graphite pencil, we refine the form shadow’s edge and continue refining sub tones in the form shadow, the cast shadow and soften the edges of the egg where form and cast shadows meet. At last we’re ready to apply the white charcoal, starting with the luminous point that can be a bit more prominent, and around it – It’s important not to exceed over the graphite at this point or it might smudge and get messy – Then, same as above, we refine the white area and smoothen the transition between tones with the waxier Derwent Pencil.

Once satisfied, we can gently blend the contour of the form shadow and then refine the other shadows and so on using a 4H pencil. The contact shadow (the darker part of the cast shadow right where the egg touches it) can be added in 4B pencil and blended/refined some more using the harder graphite.
Long process for something as simple as an egg! ;)